Wine, Warmth and Good Cheer in the Clare Valley
by GAVIN WYATT
Country Australia has a big reputation, one that evokes images of wide open spaces, rolling green fields and friendly faced folk. And no where else is country Australia better represented than in the Clare Valley in South Australia. This rural working community is an increasingly popular escape for holiday makers needing to step back from the hustle and bustle of life and wind down in the fresh country air. You cannot blame them for choosing the Clare Valley, whose seven smaller valleys provide the fertile ground from which thick grapevines and lush green pastures spring. Rich in the culture and traditions of farming and wine making, it is the perfect antidote to the stressed out lives we lead.
The wine makers of Clare Valley have become renowned the world over for their Australian Riesling, which is now the benchmark by which others measure their excellence. But wine here is not just about quality- it is about upholding a tradition of intimate hospitality, where good times are had by all and the knowledge of wine making is imparted and shared. So it is essential when you are in the Clare Valley that you visit the wineries, sample their wares and enjoy the warm, friendly atmosphere created by the owners. The Sevenhill Cellars comes highly recommended, not only for its magnificent wines but also because of its unique history. Founded by Jesuit Priests in 1851 to produce sacramental wine, it is the oldest winery in the Valley and the only one in Australia to be run by a religious order. Their range of white, red and fortified wines has brought them international recognition, as has the good cheer of the Jesuit Brothers in residence. Many of the other wineries have been run by certain families for many years, the secrets of their blends passed down and refined over the generations, in keeping with the intimate atmosphere of the Clare Valley.
The history of the Valley is closely associated with copper mining, and you can see this influence in many of the beautifully quaint towns here. Burra was initially a colonial mining community, and has retained its historical charm through the preservation of its old buildings and architecture. Now declared a State Heritage Area, this interesting town is home to the Mine Complex, which is concerned with preserving and exhibiting the history of the area. The historic market square in Burra has an open market every saturday morning where you can browse through the arts and crafts and other local produce on sale. Another heritage town is Kapunda, which is where the copper industry first began. The town itself is as beautifully preserved as Burra, and it is surrounded by large green cattle pastures. Famed for being used in the filming of popular TV series 'Mcleods Daughters', Kapunda is often referred to as the states best kept secret.
To get a glimpse how the extremely wealthy lived in colonial times, pay a visit to Martindale Hall. This authentic nineteenth century Georgian mansion is beautifully preserved with all its original furniture and fittings intact, and is open to overnight guests or day trippers. Set in a forty five acre conservation park, it will transport you to another time and place.
The beauty of the Clare Valley has inspired generations of artists and allowed a strong tradition of arts and crafts to blossom in the area. The creative people here support numerous festivals in which they showcase their talents, and there are also plenty galleries and studios throughout the valley where they display their work. Its an interesting and educational day spent driving from gallery to gallery and taking in some of the exhibitions. Some suggestions would be Marek Herburts gallery of abstract paintings in Snowtown, or Murray Edwards mud brick Watervale studio which overlooks vineyards, gullies and hills.
Of course there are beautiful drives around the valley, but if you really want to immerse yourself into its lifestyles and traditions then taking a long walk will be well worth the time and effort. Possibly the most famous track is the Riesling Trail, a twenty five kilometre track that runs along an old abandoned railway line. Dont feel daunted by its length, the track is split up into shorter loops that cater to the unfit or the lazy! The trail connects all the small townships in the area, meaning you are never far from cafes or restaurants. But its the parts in between the towns that are the special bits, passing through lush vineyards and looking out over the undulating valley floor. Definitely recommended for avid bushwalkers or those just keen for an afternoon stroll.
Only two hours drive at the most from Adelaide, the Clare Valley is an easily accessible option for a family holiday, or a romantic weekend away. A hire car will give you the freedom to explore the nooks and crannies of the Valley and really discover the source of the special warm atmosphere here. With numerous accommodation options, from beautiful bed and breakfasts to historic miners cottages to working sheep stations, you are sure to find your perfect retreat in this gorgeous valley.
